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Essay: Shad Roe and Spring

Weekend Edition essayist Bonny Wolf rejoices in a sign of spring that not all of us have had the pleasure of experiencing: the running of the shad, and the delicacy of shad roe. She offers a recipe:

Allison and Larry Shad Roe

4 sets shad roe

Seasoned flour

Butter and olive oil

Anchovy paste

Heat butter and olive oil in a large, heavy frying pan until just smoking. (Cast iron is nice.)

Season a pile of flour to taste with salt and pepper. Dredge roe through the mixture and lay gently in hot pan. Keep heat medium-high to high. Cook 3-5 minutes per side, depending on size. The roe should be firm but pink in the middle.

While roe is cooking, mix anchovy paste (to taste) with softened butter.

Place each set of roe on a warmed plate. Place a dollop of anchovy butter on each set. It melts and puddles around the roe. Pass the rest of the anchovy butter.

Serves 4 really good friends.

Copyright 2022 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.

NPR commentator Bonny Wolf grew up in Minnesota and has worked as a reporter and editor at newspapers in New Jersey and Texas. She taught journalism at Texas A&M University where she encouraged her student, Lyle Lovett, to give up music and get a real job. Wolf gives better advice about cooking and eating, and contributes her monthly food essay to NPR's award-winning Weekend Edition Sunday. She is also a contributing editor to "Kitchen Window," NPR's Web-only, weekly food column.